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Damir Kapov, betinski ribar, lovi lokalno, a misli globalno i čuva staru tradiciju sušenja landovine, uvjeren kako je ta trpeza za Badnjak najslađa, a to mu potvrđuju i poznati kuhari

Na terasi Betinjanina Damira Kapova, profesionalnog ribara, ugostitelja i maslinara, poput nekih zastava gotovo zamrle tradicije na buri se njišu i suše ovogodišnji prvi psi i mačke mrkulje, namijenjeni trpezi na Badnjak. Ne klanjaju se ove domaće vrste ni jednom suhom bakalaru, naprotiv. Ovdašnji ljudi cijenili su oduvijek vlastitu suhu ribu više od uvozne nordijske vrste i na kultni bakalar, koji u ovim danima miriše na svakom kantunu, osvrću se malo i nikako. Za njih je to i dalje čista egzotika, jednako i Kapovu, piše portal Morsko prase.

Ribe prethodno oderane kože, raspolućene duž kralježnice, s nekoliko umetnutih drvenih štapića da stoje raširene, murterinski su i kurnatarski drevni bakalar prije razglašenog bakalara, koji je u naše krajeve prodro pod gospodstvom Venecije prije nekoliko stoljeća. Prvo kao upravo idealna, vrlo hranjiva namirnica za moreplovce na dugim putovanjima, potom široko prihvaćen u puku, s vremenom je postao sinonim za sušenu ribu.

„Moja je žena Šibenka i voli bakalar. Ja ga kušam, pojedem malo, no ‘čudan’ mi je oduvik“, govori Damir i dodaje da nema onog što mu može zamijeniti sušenu mačku, ili „mašku“, po betinsku, do čega su mu jednako držali djed i otac.

Došli smo tako na oduvijek sklizak teren okusa i mirisa o kojima pristojni ljudi ne raspravljaju, ali je o tome uvijek zanimljivo koju prozboriti.
„Malo sam se oko toga dohvatio s Ivicom Propadalom, glazbenikom i likovnim umjetnikom, koji je već dugo naš Betinjanin, i bakalar je stavljao na apsolutno prvo mjesto dok mu nisam dao pasa i mašku, neka mu ih na brudet sa kumpirima spremi njegova prijateljica, poznata kuharica Ana Ugarković. Nakon toga“, priča Kapov kroza smijeh, „Propadalo je promijenio ploču i priznao: ‘Nikad više bakalar!’“

Jadranske mačke i psi, potom oslići ili moli, najzastupljenije su vrste za ovakvo konzerviranje do kojeg i danas drže svi „koji imaju Kurnate“, a i drugi otočani, premda ih je malo preostalo. Sušilo se, međutim, gotovo do nedavno svu ribu, pa i oborite orade i zubace, a naročito glavonošce bez razlike, jer nije bilo frižidera ni zamrzivača; danas se vješa na vjetar najviše zbog tradicije i posebnog teka te ribe.

Ostatak teksta pročitajte OVDJE.

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